Today la vignarola is a veritable cult object in springtime, when, for a magic few weeks, fresh fava beans, sweet, sweet peas, and locally grown globe artichokes are available simultaneously. But as recently as the mid-1980s, it wore the mystique of a traditional dish kept alive by a few dedicated souls. Its rediscovery, Read More
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How to trim artichokes, Roman style
April 17, 2017
The idea is to remove everything inedible in the kitchen. You will be tempted to comment superciliously about the waste. Don’t. Just deal with it. Anyway, the Anglo-French tooth-scraping method leaves a big pile of garbage on the table. We don’t.
Once you learn the basic principles of artichoke trimming, you will Read More
Once you learn the basic principles of artichoke trimming, you will Read More
Sheila Levine
September 27, 2014
I was saddened last night to learn of the death of Sheila Levine, retired Editorial Director of the University of California Press, and the editor responsible for the Press's publication of Encyclopedia of Pasta and Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds: Recipes and Lore from Rome and Lazio. Oretta and I were devoted to her, and Read More
Bolognese
February 26, 2014
Yet another thread about bolognese on Chowhound inspires me to post the recipe from SAUCES & SHAPES.
Ragù di carne (bolognese)
For the condimento:
2 ounces (60 grams) pancetta
1 onion, white or yellow
1 carrot
1 rib celery
3 tablespoons (40 grams) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, preferably lightly fruity
5 ounces (150 Read More
Ragù di carne (bolognese)
For the condimento:
2 ounces (60 grams) pancetta
1 onion, white or yellow
1 carrot
1 rib celery
3 tablespoons (40 grams) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, preferably lightly fruity
5 ounces (150 Read More
Department of language, manners, and mores
February 25, 2014
I am always saying that people don't think about what words really mean. Here's the latest example.
For the umpteenth time a shopping website has interrupted my browsing to propose I participate in a survey. I always read the message in case they are offering a little thank-you prize, like some airline miles or Read More
For the umpteenth time a shopping website has interrupted my browsing to propose I participate in a survey. I always read the message in case they are offering a little thank-you prize, like some airline miles or Read More
Sugo alla marinara
January 29, 2014
You've all seen the video of Lidia's recipe by now. Here's the one from "Sauces & Shapes."
For the condimento:
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound (450 grams) very high quality canned peeled tomatoes with their juice or red, ripe sauce tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, peeled and seeded
at least ½ teaspoon salt
Read More
For the condimento:
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound (450 grams) very high quality canned peeled tomatoes with their juice or red, ripe sauce tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, peeled and seeded
at least ½ teaspoon salt
Read More
Minestra di fave
January 21, 2014
Here's a nice winter recipe from "Sauces & Shapes" (page 258):
MINESTRA DI FAVE (dried fava bean and pasta soup)
for the soup:
1 pound 10 ounces (750 g) dried fava beans soaked 24-48 hours (depends on age)
1 large white onion, finely chopped
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt
Before serving:
8 ounces (225 g), or less according to taste, small Read More
MINESTRA DI FAVE (dried fava bean and pasta soup)
for the soup:
1 pound 10 ounces (750 g) dried fava beans soaked 24-48 hours (depends on age)
1 large white onion, finely chopped
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt
Before serving:
8 ounces (225 g), or less according to taste, small Read More
Pizzagate
January 13, 2014
There's a thread on Chowhound (Food Media board) about Mayor De Blasio's use of knife and fork to eat pizza. Here's what I wrote yesterday. Link to the thread follows.
I grew up in Manhattan when pizza, at least outside Little Italy (AFAIK), meant a slice eaten with your hands standing up. I used Read More
I grew up in Manhattan when pizza, at least outside Little Italy (AFAIK), meant a slice eaten with your hands standing up. I used Read More
More about the timballo
January 3, 2014
In I think 2004, or maybe ought-three, I was working on a book about Rome for Williams-Sonoma. They wanted a baked pasta and the first thing that came into my head was bechamel-mushrooms-prosciutto-peas, why I don't know. Then I said, oh no that's too retro, but by then they had said they loved the idea Read More
Il timballo di San Silvestro
January 1, 2014
For some years now Franco and I have been inviting friends, and their friends, to come on December 31 for a buffet supper. As New Year’s bashes go, it’s pretty tame, but we pop the midnight corks on our roof terrace just opposite the Colosseum and watch the fireworks that successive city administrations, Read More
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